Along the Glenorchy-Queenstown Road
To get to the Routeburn trailhead one drives south from Queenstown along the winding road skirting Lake Wakatipu, through the town of Glenorchy and another 25 km beyond on single lane roads and gravel lanes. Arriving at the trailhead, it does't look like much. A small building, a toilet, a few information bulletin boards. No signs that say "GREATEST WALK IN THE WORLD!" Kiwis are so understated.
There were some cars in the car park but not a lot of people. We were getting our gear together when a man dressed in what I would call a park ranger uniform stepped out of the toilets wearing rubber gloves and handling a mop. He was very friendly, asked us where we planned to go, etc. and wished well.
The trail begins at the green Department of Conservation sign and the crossing of the first of many suspension bridges. The maximum number of people allowed on any one bridge was five. These structures and well built and maintained, and they offer some great views of the rivers, creeks and gorges throughout the journey. As you know, you can't comprehend beauty and grandeur from a post card or photographs, but here are a few pictures from the first leg of the walk. But keep reading, the story gets way better.
There were some cars in the car park but not a lot of people. We were getting our gear together when a man dressed in what I would call a park ranger uniform stepped out of the toilets wearing rubber gloves and handling a mop. He was very friendly, asked us where we planned to go, etc. and wished well.
The trail begins at the green Department of Conservation sign and the crossing of the first of many suspension bridges. The maximum number of people allowed on any one bridge was five. These structures and well built and maintained, and they offer some great views of the rivers, creeks and gorges throughout the journey. As you know, you can't comprehend beauty and grandeur from a post card or photographs, but here are a few pictures from the first leg of the walk. But keep reading, the story gets way better.
"Where are the billboards, internet cafe, and souvenir stand?"
The first suspension bridge
Oliver and Molly thought the moss was really cool. Very spongy and soft.
After the first bridge, the rest are quite narrow and 'wobbly.'
Load and loads of waterfalls and pools.
This is a toilet in the middle of nowhere. The park officials call it "Cape Canaveral" because its on a rail system and can be shifted a few feet to either side. Amazingly clean. Take me to the moon.
Fern Forrest
Back to Nature
Absolutely stunning
A rest by the river
Our destination was the Routeburn Flats Hut about two hours into the track. After the initial easy bits along the Routeburn River, the trail was fairly moderate with some steep bits. We moved along at a goodly pace. However, about an hour in to the walk, the "park ranger" caught up with us. We struck up a conversation. He was keen to show us some of the botany and he saw that we were keen to learn. He is not a park ranger but a Hut Warden. Hut Wardens hike into the National Parks to the huts and stay there for 8 days, looking after the huts, helping hikers, maintaining the trails and structures, assisting in emergencies, all the things that you would expect a 'ranger' to do. He told us that we really ought to go all the way up to the Routeburn Falls Hut as that was the most beautiful area along the track. Of course we thanked him but were suppose to return to Dunedin that night.
After another hour of walking, watching some 'canyoneers' (nutballs who jump into freezing rapids and slide down the chutes--looked like fun but injury rate is way up there), and learning about the various trees, etc., the Hut Warden made us an offer. He said if we were willing to make the trek, he'd put us up for the night in the Hut Warden Cabin. Told us he had plenty of food, bunks, and sleeping bags.
My first thought was about the number of pieces he would have to chop four people up into to conceal them. But no, that was silly. He is the hut warden for one of the largest and most remote areas in New Zealand. He would not need to chop us up--he would just hide our bodies, never to be seen again. It took me a good 30 minutes of internal debate and a long discussion with Claire before I finally said what the heck. This is an offer that comes along very seldom (if ever) and its all about taking advantage of the opportunities that present themselves. We agreed. This was a big turning point for me in getting out of my natural comfort zone and into the New Zealand mindset.
As it happened, he was not an axe wielding maniac or serial killer. He was an incredibly nice person who wanted to share the experience with us. It was completely fantastic.
We had lunch at the Routeburn Flats Hut. This was a spectacular valley surrounded by mountains. Its really hard not to draw correlations to The Lord of The Rings, but its east to see why the scenery here lent itself so well to those stories.
Routeburn Flats or the Plains of Rohan? Yes, that's snow on the mountain.
The hike up to the Routeburn Falls was a more moderate to rugged with some steep areas. Not a problem and the views were INCREDIBLE.
Rising up above the Flats
A couple of hours later we arrived at the Falls Hut. Huts are simply bunk spaces with a communal area with some cookers and wood/coal burning stove. You have to schedule your trip months in advance to get a spot. Its cold, a little rough, and you need to be prepared and friendly.
The Warden Hut and Falls Hut from the falls. The Flats are in the shadow of the mountain.
The Routeburn Falls Hut
The Communal area.
But we had the penthouse! The Warden's Hut was cozy and warmed up quickly with the fire started. It had electricity and the pot belly stove boiled water in a flash. We got settled in, made a cup of tea, and had a great time. The Hut Warden, who I will call John, was an amazing and generous host. He had plenty of stories about being a Hut Warden, about the Routeburn, and about life in general.
Claire helping with dinner: Bangers!
Molly relaxing on the couch
Oliver checks out our bunks
Heating up the dishes by the stove--very civilized. My father-in-law would be proud!
Sitting down to dinner with "John."
What a great time. There was even a potential emergency with lost trampers but it turned out to be a couple of amateur photographers taking night photos of the sky. They were not lost at all. It was a little cool in the morning but we soon got up and moving around. After a hearty breakfast we thanked John profusely and headed back down the track. The whole event was just a phenomenal experience and really put the capstone on our Queenstown/Arrowtown/Routeburn trip.
This is part of the Routeburn Falls. Please take a moment to admire this photo as I took it using settings on my camera I have never used before.
